surfing surfing

nine days into summer and i still haven't made it to the nose.

i've been surfing for some time, but started surfing surfing when i met my buddy mm. in recent memory, a new friend asked me what we mean by working working. what i mean by working working i also mean in surfing surfing.

why mm and i started surfing together i cannot recall. perhaps mm felt embarrassed for me, as i now today feel the embarrassment for myself that i was fully unaware of when this all started.

i credit james for getting me into surfing, buying me lu. i credit mm for getting me from 0 to 2. and in the next sixty days i hope that through my simple labor and guidance from mm i can get from 2 to 8.

surfing is one of those things unlike anything else, in the same way caving is one of those things unlike anything else. we are never entirely sure if surfing is something i am doing or if surfing is something being done to me. some things we cannot understand and if this is one of those things, i am okay with it.

surfing surfing is my invitation for hawai'i to make me. through surfing surfing my hope is that spirits of the ocean and the land surfaced above sea level can make me into someone i could never become on my own.

nine days into summer and i am slowly making progress towards reading the waves, positioning myself in the a-frame, whatever that means.

eight days into summer and i am starting to learn how to keep my hands at my sides. mm says that my aspirations to surf like the auto dealership one-legged air dancer isn't a worthwhile path. i disagree.

where i can agree is mastery of technique will be my primary tools. technique is most effectively used, and most effectively abused, by those who understand them. no computer, no friend can take the place of a sound knowledge of technique.

in this understanding, i practice a style less like the auto dealership one-legged air dancer.

and we continue our effort in surfing surfing.