keep your upper body quiet

eleven days into summer, we made it toes to the slippery gopro spot.

all sorts of characters out there with all sorts of styles. on rare occassion we'll encounter the santa. today we see the not uncommon teridactyl. on weekends especially, steer clear of the E-I-E-I-Os.

these characters are part of what makes us who we become. through their example you reflect on what not to do. and in those moments, start to find understanding on what to do.

mm says, keep your upper body quiet. i didn't know an upper body produced sound. keep your hands down. position yourself at the peak. what is a peak?

but most of all someone who goes leashless and never loses their board, well that is what we call relaxed.

if you surf a shape long enough your relationship evolves. in my short experience, either you build unconditional trust with the shape or you try with all your might and never arrive at that destination. i feel lucky to have discovered two shapes that i trust to take care of me when we happen to be in the wrong place at the wrong time.

you know you've reached this point in your relationship when everything around you is falling apart and you know that all you've got to do is hold on. and if you hold on, even with just your thumb and index finger, everything turns out fine.

if you find a shape like this, care for them, ride them, give them a purpose in this life. and maybe buy the shaper an ice cold beverage.

junior and spoon, they're my go-tos.